Christian Dior designed by John Galliano
Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2005
John Galliano’s creation looks like a garment in the process of becoming. The muslin bodice suggests tailors forms, while layers of fabric attached provisionally to the corset suggest the intital stages of the design process. Traditionally hidden interior details, such as grosgrain wist tapes, bust pads, and tulle underskirts, are exposed, transforming structure into ornament. Galliano’s shifting of a padded bra cup from the bust to the hip is an ironic reference to Dior’s 1950s ‘New Look’ silhouette which relied on the padding of the bust and hips, as well as on the cinching of the waist for its pronounced curvilinear silhouette.